Journey through India and Nepal

I took a two-day trip over the weekend, about six hours from Pune, with an Iyengar student Dale who I had met at a workshop in Illinois. Such a small, small world. In Ellora, there are 12 Buddhist and Hindu caves, and in Ajanta, there are 30 Buddhist caves. One would have to be in shape for the climb up and down, up and down. Some people hired two men to carry them in a chair, I was tempted. The caves were incredible.

The overnight train was quite an experience. I had a lovely Indian man in my compartment, and we talked about family life, business, religion, and politics. I was exhausted and fell asleep; he was gone when I woke up. I was so delighted to have the compartment to myself. I listened to Osho tapes and music, read, and wrote in my journal. Then a family from Kashmir came in, and they were very loud. They had many containers, and I realized they had brought their dinner. So as lovely and kind that Indian people are, I had a delicious dinner. Then it was time for bed, and I could not get much sleep. Between the father and daughter snoring and the A/C, which felt like I was in a freezer, I lay in my hard bunk practicing surrender. I was dreaming of earplugs. 

At 2:30 am, the trainman woke me up since my destination was arriving. I originally was going to take the five-hour bus to Dharamsala, but at 3:00 am, I decided to be driven by car, which took three hours and cost 950 rupees, about $21.00. It was worth every cent. It was beautiful to see the sunrise as we drove up the mountain.

No doubt, this looks like the oldest city in the world. I need to add to my list that there are bats here, yes, bats!!! I met a couple from NY and spent September 11th with them, starting with a 5:30 am boat trip down the Ganges. Early in the morning, you can see people bathing in the dirty, polluted water to remove all past sins. There are over 100 ghats, some used for "burning," where bodies are cremated. It was such a beautiful ritual to see the family (men only, since women were known to throw themselves into the burning fire to be with their loved ones) carry the body through the town, shave them, and turn them in the four directions, uses banyan tree wood and set them on fire. It takes about three hours for a body to burn. The only thing left of a man is his chest bone and the hip bone of a woman. 

Saw where older people stayed waiting to die. It showed me how quickly a lifetime could go up in smoke. What's left??? We went to a yoga school where the young boys were climbing ropes, wrestling, and swinging weights over their shoulders, all in the mud. So much for an outdoor gym. 

I went to a Muslim area to watch weavers working on making silk brocades and beautiful Benares Saris on hand looms. What a meditation to do this work! In the afternoon, we went to Sarnath. This is where the Buddha came to preach his message on the middle way to Nirvana after he achieved enlightenment in Bodhgaya. It was a great day.

Population 21,100, Jule (pronounced joo-lay) means hello, goodbye, please, and thank you in the Ladakhi language. I flew to Jammu, spent the night, and flew to Lah. The security at the airport was so tight. They checked me four times and everything in my purse inside and out. Ladakh is a sensitive area: it borders both Pakistan and China. There are soldiers everywhere. The altitude is 3505, and you suffer from AMS (acute mountain sickness). 

The whole village shuts down in the winter. The Great Himalaya Range, with some snow-capped peaks of 7135m, borders Ladakh to the southwest. I'm staying at the Lotus Hotel and have views of three sides of the Himalayas. The beauty and peace are like nothing I have ever experienced. I'm taking morning walks to incredible ancient Buddhist temples and stupas, which often you have to walk up 100 plus steps. 

The altitude is to get used to and the constant dehydration. The village is mainly Ladakh, Tibetan, and tourists. I feel so happy, content, and blessed. I would have to say that this sacred land is the highlight of my journey through India.

I met a couple from Holland on the airplane from Lah to Delhi and drove to Jaipur. I'm staying at the Hotel Arya Niwas, which is very clean, with many westerners, good vegetarian food, and a great internet connection. I took the daylong city tour to City Palace, Amber Fort, Museums, and beautiful temples. 

I was the only westerner and met many new Indian friends. Jaipur is a very dynamic city, the pink city. It has a new section that is very clean and beautiful. Before there were Rolex watches, sundials were used. It was amazing how the time was exact.

The flight to Delhi was smooth. I decided that I wanted a local bus experience. Agra by car is only 2 1/2 hours. The long eight-hour journey started with the driver being unable to find the bus station, which was only 30 minutes away and took over an hour. Then the bus stopped in every town and street corner, and people would come into the bus each time to sell water, food, etc. Now, this went on the entire time. I'm the only westerner on the bus, and I had my duffle on the seat so nobody would sit with me. It was sweltering and humid, so the person in front of me and back would open their window entirely, which meant mine was shut. So each time, I would re-open my window (halfway). This was a ride that I thought would never end. Finally, we reach Agra, and the bus driver signs me to leave. My foot had not even gained ground, and auto-rickshaws and cycle rickshaw drivers were all over me.

The next day I saw the Taj Mahal, the most extravagant monument ever built for love. Beautiful semi-translucent white marble carved with flowers and inlaid with thousands of semi-precious stones in beautiful patterns. 

Late afternoon I went to Fatehpur Sikri, the Ghost City, which consisted of 46 buildings. It was built, and no rain came, so it became a ghost town. Next to it was a Muslim Mosque. I have visited many holy temples throughout India, but the vibration was very different. I was the only westerner and made my way through the HUGE complex. Besides having to say NO, NO, many times to guides, postcards, pens, etc., it was a compelling experience.

Went to the birthplace of Krishna. It was very well guarded, with no pictures, 24 hours chanting Hare Krishna, and POWERFUL. We went to the forest where Krishna and Radha danced. A guide took me through the narrow alleyways in Vrindavan to the many temples with monkeys everywhere. 

One of the temples had 2,000 women, unmarried with no name and no family, and they chanted the Hare Krishna mantra two times a day for four hours. We went to a temple where for a donation, you have your family names carved in Hindi on a slab of marble, and it's put in the temple. There was a ritual as well that went with this wealthiest, most heartbreaking experience. 

The International Krishna Consciousness (ISKON) has its main complex with devotees worldwide. We arrived at sunset, and it was so alive with singing and dancing. We ended the day at a Sikh temple for prayers and a tall. Tomorrow I go to Varanasi, the city of Shiva, on the bank of the sacred Ganges, where pilgrims come to the bath to wash away all sins. It also is where the most intimate rituals of life and death occur in public.

I stayed at the Tibetian Guest House, which was very clean and centrally located. Thamel is a popular tourist destination in Kathmandu, Nepal. Thamel has been the center of the tourist industry in Kathmandu for over four decades, starting from the hippie movement. Even though some refer to Thamel as the "ghetto," " most low-budget travelers consider it a tourist heaven. Its narrow streets are lined with small shops selling everything from food and provisions to clothes, walking gear, cakes, pastries, music, DVDs, and handicrafts. The prices are even lower than in India. 

The city stands at an elevation of approximately 4,600 ft in the bowl-shaped Kathmandu Valley of central Nepal. It is surrounded by four major mountains: Shivapuri, Phulchoki, Nagarjun, and Chandragiri. The city has a rich history, spanning nearly 2000 years, as inferred from inscriptions in the valley. Most of Kathmandu's people follow Hinduism, and many others follow Buddhism.

June 2007- Pokara, Napal

Pokhara is about 200 km west of the capital Kathmandu. Pokhara is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Nepal. Three of the ten highest mountains in the world — Dhaulagiri, Annapurna I, and Manaslu — are within 30 miles of the city, so the city's northern skyline offers a very close view of the Himalayas. My guesthouse was so beautiful, with three windows facing the mountains. I did lots of yoga, long walks, boat rides, and relaxation at the end of my visit to Nepal. 

One evening the group from the Nepal Idol stayed the night and performed the next day for a benefit. They invited me to join, and it was a blast!!

This was my first experience in South India and was very different from the other parts of India I had experienced. The people were french speaking, and it was immaculate. 

The Sri Aurobindo Ashram is a spiritual community (ashram) established at Pondicherry in the Indian territory of Puducherry. In Sri Aurobindo's yoga, the highest aim is being one without the renunciation of life in the world. Such a fulfillment of the consciousness, the urge for perfection, must not be confined to a few individuals but must extend to the masses, leading to a new type of being that is "eternal, self-existing, and inalienable." 

Sri Aurobindo lays the foundation of his inquiry by focusing on the contradiction between the mundane human existence and the human desire to acquire divine perfection in life.

An ashram is undoubtedly a beautiful place. One big hall is where people sit to meditate, contemplate, or be there. At the end of the hall is Sri Bhagavan (Ramana Maharshi) Shrine, a sort of temple with a Shiva Lingam in the middle and a statue of Ramana Maharshi behind it. Next to the big hall, another hall is divided into two rooms. 

In the first room, there is a statue of Ramana Maharshi and some paintings, and in the second room, there is the Shrine of the Mother. There are also two other rooms specially dedicated to meditation.

This experience was most profound. The Sri Ramanasramam offers no special yoga or meditation courses. Still, a daily program starts at 6.45 am until 7.15 pm, creating an exceptional atmosphere. The program includes milk offerings to Sri Bhagavan and chanting the Vedas and puja twice daily in front of the Sri Bhagavan Shrine, followed by a puja at the Shrine of the Mother. At 4.30 pm, somebody sits at the entrance of the big hall and reads in English one of the books from the ashram.

I visited Kochi Mattanchery and stayed at the Bolgatty Palace. Kerala is called 'God's own country. You travel to the island's boat. I went to the Dutch Palace built by the Portuguese and presented to the Rajah of Cochin in A.D. 1555. The palace's glory lies in the murals, which are in the best traditions of Hindu temple art, religious, decorative, and stylish. 

Went to Jew Town, a Synagogue built in 1568, the oldest in the British Commonwealth. The great scrolls of the Old Testament and the Chinese hand-painted tiles are magnificent. 

In Fort Cochin is the Chinese Fishing Nets at the entrance to the harbor. To watch the fisherman, about 10 of them, pulling on these ropes is quite an exercise. St. Francis, a Protestant church, was built by the Portuguese in 1503 and is believed to be the first church built by Europeans in India. 

There are many ancient churches, as Kerala is primarily Christian.