Spiritual Pilgrimage in India & Nepal

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The flight from Pune to Delhi was smooth. From Delhi, I took a train to Haridwar, where the sacred Ganges emerges from the Himalayas. One of Hinduism's holiest cities, Haridwar felt as though I had stepped back in time 200 years. Sadhus dressed in saffron robes slept peacefully throughout the train station, creating a scene unlike anything I had ever experienced.

That evening, I stayed in a very modest room, but the location more than made up for its simplicity. Under the light of a full moon, I sat on the banks of the sacred Ganges with my legs in the water. I smiled, laughed, and felt profoundly grateful for having the courage and trust to create such a powerful experience.

The following day, I traveled to Rishikesh, nestled along the banks of the Ganges and surrounded by the Himalayan foothills. The town is connected by two iconic suspension bridges—Lakshman Jhula and Shivananda Jhula—and is home to countless temples, ashrams, yoga centers, cafés, and small shops. I found a beautiful hotel where I stayed for ten days. The views were breathtaking, and the peaceful atmosphere invited reflection and practice.

I deeply admired the sadhus who walked for days to reach these sacred places carrying only a walking stick, a stainless-steel bowl for food, and a small cloth bag containing everything they owned. I had arrived in India with a large rolling suitcase. Inspired by their simplicity, I exchanged it for two mala bead necklaces and replaced it with a soft shoulder bag. It felt like a small step toward living more simply.

During my stay, I attended teachings at the Sivananda Ashram, where the spirit of yoga, devotion, and simplicity left a lasting impression on my heart.

Varanasi is often considered one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities, and it truly feels timeless. I also discovered that it is home to countless bats—yes, bats! It was just one more surprise in a city unlike any I had ever experienced.

I met a wonderful couple from New York, and together we spent September 11th beginning with a 5:30 a.m. boat ride along the sacred Ganges.

At sunrise, pilgrims gathered along the river to bathe in its sacred waters, believing the Ganges has the power to cleanse past karma and purify the soul. Watching these ancient rituals unfold at daybreak was both humbling and unforgettable.

Varanasi is also home to more than one hundred ghats, including those where Hindu cremation ceremonies have taken place for centuries. I witnessed families carrying their loved ones through the narrow streets to the river before the cremation rites began. The ceremonies were performed with profound reverence and devotion, reminding me of the sacred cycle of life and death.

Seeing the cremation ghats and nearby places where elderly pilgrims waited to spend their final days left a lasting impression. It was a powerful reminder of life's impermanence and how quickly a lifetime passes. I found myself asking, What truly remains?

Later, we visited a traditional yoga school where young boys climbed ropes, wrestled, and swung heavy wooden clubs in the dirt. I smiled to myself—so much for an outdoor gym.

I also explored the Muslim quarter, where master artisans patiently wove exquisite Benares silk saris by hand. Watching their quiet concentration was a meditation in itself.

That afternoon, we visited Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first teaching after attaining enlightenment in Bodhgaya. Standing where the Dharma was first shared with the world was a deeply meaningful way to end the day.

Leh had a population of approximately 21,000 at the time of my visit. The Ladakhi greeting, Juley, means hello, goodbye, please, and thank you—a beautiful expression of kindness and hospitality.

I flew to Jammu, spent the night, and continued on to Leh. Security at the airport was extremely tight. My bags and purse were inspected repeatedly, a reminder that Ladakh shares borders with both Pakistan and China and is a strategically sensitive region.

At an elevation of 3,505 meters (11,500 feet), the effects of altitude were immediate. Acclimating to the thinner air and staying hydrated became part of daily life, as acute mountain sickness (AMS) is common for visitors.

During the winter months, much of the region closes down under heavy snowfall. Surrounded by the majestic Himalayas, with snow-capped peaks rising above the landscape, Ladakh possesses a beauty unlike anywhere I have ever experienced.

I stayed at the Lotus Hotel, where my room looked out toward the Himalayas on three sides. Each morning I walked to ancient Buddhist temples, monasteries, and stupas, often climbing more than one hundred steps to reach them. Every step was rewarded with breathtaking views and an overwhelming sense of peace.

The altitude took some getting used to, as did the constant dryness, but life here moved at a slower, more contemplative pace. The town was home to Ladakhi people, Tibetan Buddhists, and travelers from around the world, all drawn to this extraordinary landscape.

I felt profoundly happy, content, and blessed. Of all the places I visited during my pilgrimage through India, this sacred land touched my heart most deeply and remains the highlight of my journey.

I'm now in the southern part of Rajasthan, in Udaipur, considered India's most romantic city, the City of Lakes. Every city in India is unique, each with its own character and rhythm.

The streets—or what we would call walkways in America—are filled with cows, bulls, goats, pigs, elephants, camels, auto and pedal rickshaws, scooters, jeeps, cars, horse-drawn buggies, donkeys, and people. 

Today I toured the overlooking Lake Pichola, the largest palace complex in Rajasthan. The beauty, craftsmanship, and intricate details are beyond words. I could have happily moved into the ladies' quarters.

One entire section displayed furniture made completely of crystal. They certainly knew how to live in the old days.

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One entire section displayed furniture made completely of crystal. They certainly knew how to live in the old days.

Afterward, I took an elephant ride through the city. I wondered how I would climb into the seat, since I expected a ladder. Instead, the mahout gave a series of loud commands, and the elephant slowly bent one front leg, then the other, then lowered his back legs until he was kneeling. I was instructed to step onto his leg, hold onto his ear, and climb aboard. Once seated, the elephant rose to his full height, and I held on very tightly. Getting off was just as much fun.

Since it is the off-season, I negotiated a wonderful rate at a beautiful hotel. My room has marble floors, rich fabrics, and overlooks the City Palace. Just next door is a Hanuman temple, where I wake each morning to the sounds of prayer.

The people here are warm and friendly, and not nearly as aggressive as in some other parts of India. 

Shopkeepers quickly recognize newcomers and enthusiastically invite you into their stores. After three months in India, I have learned the secret—silence. I stay calm, centered, grounded, and quietly chant OM. It works. Although I must admit, it is incredibly difficult to resist buying everything.

Today, a cow casually bumped into me. It startled me at first, but then I couldn't stop laughing.

This evening I attended a traditional Indian folk dance performance in an old palace. The dancers balanced bowls with burning flames on their heads. One woman danced with eight bowls stacked high above her while performing barefoot on broken glass.

Talk about balance, concentration, and unwavering focus.

One temple was home to nearly 2,000 widows who had no family to care for them. Twice each day, they gathered to chant the Hare Krishna mantra for four hours. Witnessing their devotion and resilience was one of the most moving experiences of my journey.

We also visited a temple where, for a donation, families could have their names carved in Hindi on a marble plaque that would become part of the temple. A beautiful ritual accompanied the offering, making it both a meaningful and emotional experience.

We later visited the International Society for Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON), where devotees from around the world had gathered. Arriving at sunset, we were welcomed by joyful singing, dancing, and heartfelt devotion. The atmosphere was vibrant and uplifting.

We ended the day at a Sikh temple, where we joined the evening prayers and shared a traditional meal.

Tomorrow I travel to Varanasi, the sacred city of Shiva on the banks of the Ganges, where pilgrims come to bathe in the holy river and where the timeless rituals of life and death unfold in the open.

I stayed at the Tibetan Guest House, a charming and centrally located hotel in the heart of Thamel. The lively neighborhood is filled with narrow streets lined with shops selling everything from trekking gear and handcrafted gifts to pastries, music, and local foods. The prices were even lower than in India, making it a wonderful place to explore.

Kathmandu sits at an elevation of approximately 4,600 feet in a valley surrounded by beautiful mountains. Its rich history and blend of Hindu and Buddhist traditions create a unique spiritual atmosphere that can be felt throughout the city.

Walking through Thamel, I enjoyed the colorful streets, friendly people, and vibrant energy. It was the perfect introduction to Nepal before venturing into the Himalayas.

This was my first experience in South India, and it felt remarkably different from the other regions of India I had visited. The French influence was immediately apparent, from the architecture to the language spoken throughout the streets. The city was peaceful, beautifully maintained, and remarkably clean.

My time at Sri Aurobindo Ashram offered a quiet atmosphere for reflection, meditation, and study. I was deeply inspired by Sri Aurobindo's vision that spiritual growth is not separate from everyday life, but can be lived and expressed through our thoughts, actions, and relationships.

The serenity of the ashram and the beauty of Puducherry made this visit a memorable part of my continuing spiritual journey through India.

Nestled at the foot of the sacred Arunachala Hill, Sri Ramanasramam was one of the most profound places I visited during my travels in India.

The ashram is simple, peaceful, and devoted to meditation and self-inquiry. The main hall houses a statue of Sri Ramana Maharshi, while nearby are the Shrine of the Mother and quiet meditation rooms that invite silence and contemplation.

Unlike many ashrams, Sri Ramanasramam offers no formal yoga or meditation courses. Instead, daily life unfolds through a steady rhythm of devotion and simplicity. From early morning until evening, the schedule includes Vedic chanting, milk offerings and puja at the shrine of Sri Bhagavan, additional ceremonies at the Mother's Shrine, and daily readings from the teachings of Ramana Maharshi.

The atmosphere was unlike any place I had experienced. The silence was tangible, the presence deeply peaceful, and the invitation to simply "be" felt more powerful than words could express.

Leaving Sri Ramanasramam, I carried with me a deeper appreciation for stillness, self-inquiry, and the wisdom that true peace is found within.